October 07, 2005

Taiwanese Pineapple Shortbreads 鳳梨酥

Taiwanese Pineapple Tarts
I love to eat Taiwanese Pineapple Shortbreads. They are quite similar to the Pineapple Tarts of Malaysia or Singapore. The only differences are that they are moulded shortbreads, usually square in shape (see the photo below of my Apple and Strawberry Shortbreads I baked last year for Mid-Autumn Festival), and their pineapple filling tastes milder and not as sharp because it includes winter melon. Some commercial fillings from Taiwan do not even contain pineapple, just winter melon flesh with pineapple essence!
Apple (green-marbled pastry) and Strawberry (red-marbled pastry) Shortbreads 2004
I first learnt about making Taiwanese Pineapple Shortbreads from the Taiwanese website, 克萊兒的點心小棧, ooh about 4 or 5 years ago. The one recipe for the pastry that I used ever since to make them is posted there together with a very delicious pineapple filling also on that website. It is very short-textured and crumbles easily as soon as you bite into it, and the best shortbreads I have ever tasted. However the one shortcoming of that recipe is you must use the square moulds to bake them, or else the shortbreads will flop out of shape in the oven. And where can you buy the moulds? Only in Taiwan (maybe also in Hong Kong), I'm afraid. In the beginning, I even tried to make my own moulds using thick layers of aluminium foil… Then I was lucky a very kind boardmate there gave me a set of moulds as present all the way from Taiwan, so I can bake them whenever I wanted without having to resort to making the moulds as well. Another way to overcome the lack of moulds is to use tall-ish straight-edge metal cookie cutters to bake them. However you need one cutter for each shortbread you want to bake, so that means you need to not only be able to find the metal cookie cutters (which is hard in itself as most cookie cutters are made in plastic nowadays), but to get at least 20 of them for a comfortable bake.
Traditional Square Moulds for making Taiwanese Pineapple Shortbreads & Lovely Packaging Envelopes for the Shortbreads (on the right)
Well, I was mucking around with baking these shortbreads a few days ago and came up with this recipe that you can shape using one cookie cutter and bake without the mould. Actually I made the pineapple filling a couple of months ago when I had an excess of winter melon, thinking that I was going to make these shortbreads for the Mid-Autumn festival a few weeks back as they were also one type of mooncakes served in Taiwan. However I ended up not making them for the festival and the filling is taking up spaces in my refrigerator. So I decided to make them now and did a bit of experimenting at the same time. I took my pastry recipe for making my Mango Tarts and adjusted it as I was very happy with the texture of those miniature tarts last time I made them. I crossed my fingers and baked them. I was prepared for the shortbreads to flop somewhat out of shape as they were quite 'tall'. Well, what do you know, they actually stood their ground in the oven and came out looking quite respectable indeed. OK, without the assistance of the moulds, they don't have sharp edges but at least they retained the shapes of the mould I used to shape them.
So for all of you who want to try baking these delicious Taiwanese Pineapple Shortbreads but without access to the moulds, here's my recipe for baking them using just one cookie cutter instead. Here I have used the flower shape cookie cutter of about 4.5cm across and 1.5cm tall to make them, so the amount indicated for each shortbread is based on this size. You can use whatever shapes of cookie cutters you desired, eg. heart-shaped, round-shaped, square-shaped, just don't try to use cutters with complicated shapes which will make it too difficult to shape the shortbreads.
Inside Texture of Taiwanese Pineapple Tart

Makes approx. 30 - 32 shortbreads.
[Ingredients]
Pastry:
240g plain flour, sifted
60g vanilla custard powder, sifted
pinch salt
50g icing sugar, sifted
180g ghee
1 egg yolk
Pineapple Filling:
1 x 440g-can sliced pineapple in natural juice
500g grated winter melon 冬瓜 or spaghetti melon 魚翅瓜
200g white sugar
200g maltose
pinch salt
1 - 2 clove 丁香 (optional)
http://cafeoftheeast.blogspot.com/
[Preparation]
Pineapple Filling:
1. Drain the sliced pineapple and reserve the natural juice. Grate the sliced pineapple.
2. Put the grated pineapple, juice, grated winter melon and clove in a saucepan and cook over medium to high heat to reduce the juice. When the mixture is quite dry, add the sugar, maltose and salt, and cook over low heat until the mixture is sticky and leave the side of the pan when you give it a stir. You must try to give the mixture a stir intermittently during the cooking period to prevent mixture burning on the bottom of the pan. Remove clove and cool. The mixture can be chilled in an airtight container for at least a couple of months in the refrigerator, or frozen for even longer period. Just remove however much you need to make the pineapple shortbreads, and store the rest back into the refrigerator for next time.
Pastry:
1. Preheat oven to 180°C. Cream ghee and egg yolk briefly. Add sifted flour, salt, custard powder and icing sugar. Knead into a soft and pliable dough.
2. Divide dough into approximately 15 to 20g pieces and divide the Pineapple Filling into approximately 15g pieces, or adjust according to the size of your cookie cutter. Wrap each portion of the filling inside each piece of dough. Round into a ball shape. Repeat with the rest of the dough pieces and filling portions.
3. Use your cookie cutter to shape the wrapped dough pieces. Place the round dough inside the cookie cutter on an ungreased baking sheet. Press down with the heel of your palm to make the dough fit into the cookie cutter shape. Carefully remove the cookie cutter. Finish moulding the rest of the wrapped dough pieces.
Moulded Taiwanese Pineapple Tarts before Baking
4. Bake for about 18 minutes (also depending on the size of your shortbreads), or until the shortbreads are light golden brown. Cool on the tray for about 10 minutes as the shortbreads are very fragile at this stage. Then use a flat spatula to remove the shortbreads to a wire rack to finish cooling. Store in airtight container.
Freshly Baked Taiwanese Pineapple Tarts
[Note]
1. Please note this recipe uses 1 standard cup of 250ml, 1 tablespoon of 20ml and 1 teaspoon of 5ml.
2. The size of egg used is about 60g (includes shell) unless otherwise stated.

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September 15, 2005

Golden Yolk Puffs 蛋黃酥 & Mandarin Pair Puffs 鴛鴦餅

Golden Yolk Puffs (with sesame seeds topping) & Mandarin Pair Puffs
Golden Yolk Puffs (蛋黃酥) and Mandarin Pair Puffs (鴛鴦餅, the mandarin pair as in a pair of mandarin ducks, represented by the combination of a dark-coloured and light-coloured fillings, also one salty and one sweet – a yin and a yang) are both Taiwanese-style mooncakes. They are the Chinese puff pastry typed mooncakes with red bean paste fillings combined with salted duck egg yolks (for Golden Yolk Puffs) or rice-cakes (for Mandarin Pair Puffs). Once wrapped up and baked, the combined fillings represent a bright moon (the yolk or the rice-cake) shining in a clear night sky (the red bean paste).
Mandarin Pair Puff - Flaky Layers of Chinese Puff Pastry
Mooncakes are eaten during the ‘Mid-Autumn Festival’ (中秋節) by the Chinese, the festival falling every year on the fifteenth day of the eighth lunar month (it falls on September 18th this year) in the Chinese calender. The mid-autumn signifies the harvesting of grains in the Chinese history, and also the gathering of family during the harvest, represented by the full moon (a complete family or 團圓 in Chinese) on the day.
Then there is the legend of Chang-E (pronounced as chang-eh) and her ascension to the moon (嫦娥奔月). There are a couple of different versions to the legend, but the popular one goes like this. Once upon a time, there appeared 10 suns in the sky, shining down on earth and drying everything up. A hunter by the name of Hou-Yi shot down 9 suns to rescue the earth and became a hero. He then married a girl by the name of Chang-E and lived happily for a while. One day Hou-Yi met a priest while hunting and the priest, being thankful for him shooting down the 9 suns, offered Hou-Yi an immortal pill. Hou-Yi in turn gave the pill to his wife for safe-keeping. However one of Hou-Yi apprentices decided to steal the pill for himself. He forced Chang-E to produce the pill while Hou-Yi was out hunting one day. In desperation and unable to fight him off, Chang-E swallowed the pill to prevent the evil apprentice from getting it. She became immortal and rapidly ascended into the sky towards the moon. It happened on the fifteenth day of the eighth lunar month. Hou-Yi would then worship the moon every year on the day in remembrance of his wife. It is said that every year on this day, if you look carefully at the moon, you would see the image of Chang-E there. This romantic legend passed down generation by generation and the moon became associated with the Mid-Autumn Festival.
Traditionally, Chinese celebrated the day not only by eating mooncakes, but also activities like moon viewing (賞月), moon worshipping and offering (祭月﹑拜月), and lantern display (賞燈). Todays, mooncakes come in many different guises, from the Cantonese-style in the south to the Beijing-style towards the north. The most popular would have to be the Cantonese styled baked mooncakes, which could be square or round in shapes. The baked puff pastry styled is the new variant of the mooncakes from the Su-Zhou (蘇州) and Chao-Zhou (潮州) regions, of course traditionally would be pan-fried or deep-fried rather than baked. Then the newest incarnation of the mooncakes is the snowskin mooncakes, which only appeared as recently as ten or twenty years ago.
Puff Pastry Typed Taiwanese Mooncakes

Adapted from the recipe ‘蛋黃酥’ in ‘精緻點心DIY’ by 游純雄 and 王志雄, published by 暢文出版社, 1998 (2002 reprint edition), and from the recipe ‘鴛鴦餅’ in ‘中式點心DIY’ by 沈鴻典, published by 暢文出版社, 2000 (2003 reprint edition).

Makes 20 puffs (10 of each).
[Ingredients]
Chinese Puff Pastry – Water Dough:
225g plain flour
pinch salt
80g ghee, lard or shortening
50g icing sugar
120ml lukewarm water, or adjust as necessary
Chinese Puff Pastry – Short Dough:
170g plain flour
40g cornflour
100g ghee, lard or shortening
Red Bean Paste
For Golden Yolk Filling:
250g Red Bean Paste
5 salted duck egg yolks
1 tablespoon Chinese rice wine
Frozen Salted Egg Yolks
For Mandarin Pair Filling:
250g Red Bean Paste
Rice-Cake:
35g reduced-salt butter, melted
50g icing sugar
35g cooked glutinous rice flour
1/4 teaspoon salt
10g (1 tablespoon) milk powder
60ml water
To Finish:
1 egg yolk, beaten for glazing
1 tablespoon black or white sesame seeds, for sprinkling as topping
http://cafeoftheeast.blogspot.com/
[Preparation]
For Golden Yolk Filling:
1. Toss salted duck egg yolks in rice wine then steam for 10 minutes. Cool and cut each egg yolk in half.
2. Divide the red bean paste into 10 equal portions.
3. Wrap each half of the yolk inside each portion of the red bean paste. Cover and chill until ready to use.
Golden Yolk Puffs
For Mandarin Pair Filling:
1. Mix all the rice-cake ingredients together. The dough will be very wet in the beginning, stir vigorously with a spoon until it comes together and forms into a soft dough. Divide the dough into 10 equal portions.
2. Divide the red bean paste into 10 equal portions.
3. Wrap each portion of the rice-cake inside each portion of the red bean paste. Cover and chill until ready to use.
Mandarin Pair Puffs
Chinese Puff Pastry – Water Dough:
Mix all ingredients to form a soft dough, you may need to adjust the amount of water depending on the water absorbency of the flour used. Knead until smooth. Wrap in cling film and set aside for 15 - 20 minutes before using.
Chinese Puff Pastry – Short Dough:
Mix all ingredients to form a soft dough. Knead until the dough has approximately the same pliability/malleability as the Water Dough.
To make Chinese Puff Pastry:
Divide the Water dough and the Short Dough respectively into 20 equal portions. Take one portion of the Short Dough piece and wrap it inside a Water Dough piece. Roll the combined dough piece out into a thin flat sheet using a rolling pin. With your hand, roll the thin sheet up, Swiss-roll styled, into a short cigar shape. Turn the cigar 90° so that one of the round ends faces you. With the rolling pin, roll it out into a flat sheet again. Then roll it up Swiss-roll styled again. Round the roll-up dough piece into a ball. Repeat with the rest of the dough pieces until you get 20 combined dough balls.
To make Puffs:
Preheat oven to 200°C. Roll out or press each dough ball into a round flat disc, with the outer edges slightly thinner than the centre. Wrap each portion of the filling inside each portion of the flat dough. Seal up tightly by pressing the edges together to enclose the filling. Place the puff, seal side down on a baking sheet. Glaze with egg yolk wash. Sprinkle a little sesame seeds on top of the Golden Yolk Puffs (to differential them from the Mandarin Pair Puffs). Repeat with the rest until finished. Bake for about 18 minutes, or until golden in colour.

[Note]
1. Please note this recipe uses 1 standard cup of 250ml, 1 tablespoon of 20ml and 1 teaspoon of 5ml.
2. The size of egg used is about 60g (includes shell) unless otherwise stated.

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September 04, 2005

Snowskin Kaya Mooncakes

Snowskin Kaya Mooncakes
Finally started my first batch of mooncakes for this year – and I made Snowskin Kaya Mooncakes. The filling is firm kaya thickened by cornflour and plain flour. The inspiration for this kaya mooncake is from one of my favourite nyonya snacks, Kuih Salat. Instead of a kaya layer on top of glutinous rice layer, here I used the glutinous snowskin pastry to wrap the kaya.
Kuih Salat
I decided to try a new snowskin recipe from a Taiwanese cookbook as opposed to the one I used to make Snowskin Strawberry Mooncakes with. However the process was quite tricky with the pastry ending up quite sticky, so I had to add quite an extra amount of cooked glutinous rice flour to it. Apart from that, as the firm kaya was also quite soft and slightly sticky, I had to roll out the skin dough to wrap instead of the push and wrap method I used previously. As you can see from the photo, it ended up having a thicker layer of skin on the bottom. But it was worth all the effort, the combination of kaya and snowskin was delicious – however I think I would probably go back to the snowskin pastry I used for Snowskin Strawberry Mooncakes next time.
Here’s the firm kaya filling I used for these mooncakes. I won’t post the recipe for the snowskin I tried for this. However I would suggest you use the snowskin pastry for the Snowskin Strawberry Mooncakes I posted – just omit the strawberry paste essence, or replace with pandan paste essence if you want the snowskin to be green as well. I preferred the pastry to be white as that allowed the green kaya filling to just be translucent through the pastry, making each mooncake looking like a piece of jade!
A Look inside a Snowskin Kaya Mooncake

[Ingredients]
Firm Kaya:
200ml coconut cream
2 eggs
110g caster sugar
1/4 teaspoon pandan paste, or adjust as necessary
20g plain flour
40g cornflour
pinch salt
http://cafeoftheeast.blogspot.com/
[Preparation]
Firm Kaya:
1. Whisk together eggs, sugar and pandan paste. Mix in flour, cornflour and salt.
2. Bring the coconut cream just to the boil in a saucepan. Pour the warm coconut cream in small stream into the egg mixture, whisking constantly with a balloon whisk as you pour (very important). Pour everything back into the saucepan.
3. Whisk the mixture over medium heat until it thickened and firmed up, and able to stand in peaks. Remove from heat. Pour into a bowl and plunge the bottom of the bowl into a larger bowl of iced-water to cool. Once cold, cover the surface of the firm kaya with cling film to prevent skin layer forming. Keep chill in the refrigerator overnight before using.
Firm Kaya used as Filling

[Note]
1. Please note this recipe uses 1 standard cup of 250ml, 1 tablespoon of 20ml and 1 teaspoon of 5ml.
2. The size of egg used is about 60g (includes shell) unless otherwise stated.

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March 25, 2005

Snowskin Strawberry Mooncakes 冰皮草莓月餅

Snowskin Strawberry Mooncakes
During the week, a request came through for this recipe which I first made about 2 years ago. I know it is rather early to post a recipe for mooncakes in March! But then you do realize that it is now autumn in the Southern Hemisphere, don’t you? So what the heck, here it is.
Mooncakes are served during the Mid-Autumn Festival. In the past ten years or so, the snowskin mooncakes have become very popular in South East Asia as they are served chilled, I guess because that would be especially good in the tropical climate. I have combined the ‘Chilled (Ping Pei) Carrot Mooncakes’ recipe from Jo’s Deli Bakery with a Japanese wagashi (Japanese sweets, see example) called ‘Ichigo Daifuku’ (苺大福 or Strawberry Mochi Cakes, see examples #1, #2, #3) and come up with this, well, east meets east, recipe. It was a great success with all who tried them. These mooncakes tasted surprisingly good, soft and also chewy at the same time. They also looked so festive draped in their red jackets with a juicy strawberry inside each of them.

Adapted from the recipe ‘Chilled (Ping Pei) Carrot Mooncakes’ at Jo’s Deli Bakery, Malaysia.

Makes approx. 8 - 10 large mooncakes, depending on size of moulds.

[Ingredients]
Snowskin Pastry:
160g icing sugar, sifted
25g ghee or shortening
1 teaspoon (approx.) strawberry paste essence, dissolved in
175ml hot water
1/2 teaspoon salt
110g cooked glutinous rice flour (gaofen 糕粉), sifted
cooked glutinous rice flour
50g cornstarch
extra cooked glutinous rice flour for dusting
Filling:
1 kg (approx.) Red Bean Paste, store-bought or see recipe below
about 10 - 15 fresh strawberries, rinsed then patted very dry
http://cafeoftheeast.blogspot.com/
[Preparation]
Snowskin Pastry:
1. Line the inside of a microwaveable container with paper towel (kitchen paper), spread cornstarch evenly on top of the paper, microwave on HIGH for 1 minute to remove its raw tart taste. Remove, sift into a mixing bowl and cool. Mix with cooked glutinous rice flour and salt. If necessary sift the flour mixture again.
2. Rub ghee into icing sugar then stir in the flour mixture. Slowly pour in the cooled strawberry water to mix into a soft dough. Cover and stand for 10 minutes before using.
3. As a rough guide, divide snowskin dough into approximately 50g-portion for large mooncake mould or 15g-portion for small mooncake mould. Lightly dust your hands with extra cooked glutinous rice flour. Knead each portion until smooth and not sticky. Roll each into a ball for used as pastry for the mooncakes.
Strawberry & Paste Filling:
4. Divide red bean paste into approximately 120g-portion (includes a strawberry) or 30g-portion (include half or quarter of a strawberry) – these are just rough guide, you need to adjust them for the size of your mould. Wrap a strawberry into each bean paste portion and form into a ball.
Wrapping and shaping the mooncakes:
5. Lightly dust your hands with extra cooked glutinous rice flour. Flatten a snowskin pastry ball into a 5cm-diameter disc. Press to make the edges thinner than the centre. Place a ball of filling in the middle and press the pastry against the filling. Hold the pastry part with the palm of your right hand. With your left hand, start pushing the filling against the pastry. As you push the paste, use your right hand to rotate the ball, at the same time pressing the pastry up, enlarging it to enclose and seal the filling. You may find this hard to do in the beginning but with a bit of practice you will soon get the hang of it. When you finish you should get a completely enclosed mooncake ball with an even thin layer of snowskin pastry.
wooden mooncake mould
6. Dust the mooncake mould with extra cooked glutinous rice flour. Place the finished mooncake ball, seal side up, into the mould. Press the mooncake in to shape, then bang upper, lower, left and right sides of the mould against the bench to dislodge the mooncake. Repeat with the remaining mooncake pastry and filling balls.
8. Chill the snowskin mooncakes in the refrigerator for at least 1 hour before serving.
Snowskin Strawberry Mooncake
[Tips]
1. If you cannot get strawberry essence or do not want to use essence, you can substitute the strawberry water with 180ml strawberry juice.
2. If you find it hard to wrap the filling using the amount of snowskin pastry suggested, you may want to increase the amount of dough slightly so it is easier to wrap.


Red Bean Paste 烏豆沙
Red Bean Paste 烏豆沙
Makes about 500g bean paste.
[Ingredients]
300g (approx. 1 1/3 cups) dried adzuki beans 紅豆
800-1000ml (3-4 cups) water
150g-200g sugar, adjust to taste
50-100g lard or ghee, adjust to taste
[Preparation]
1. Soak adzuki beans in enough water to cover for at least 3-5 hours or overnight. Drain.
2. Rapidly boil water in a saucepan, add drained beans and cook over low heat for about 1 1/2 hours until the beans split and are soft.
3. Drain and press through a sieve to remove the skins, this process will produce a very fine paste.
4. Melt lard or ghee in a wok until hot, stir-fry 1/4 to 1/3 of the sugar until melted, then add the paste and stir fry, adding the remaining sugar little by little, continue to stir-fry until thick and the bean paste can stand in peaks. Cool.
[Variation]
Use skinless mung beans to make Mung Bean Paste. Need less boiling time, or can be steamed until soft.

[Note]
Please note this recipe uses 1 standard cup of 250ml, 1 tablespoon of 20ml and 1 teaspoon of 5ml.

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